A special session at the 2024 CIBJO Congress in Shanghai has heard from Swiss industry representatives about safeguarding the standards for natural diamonds that are used in the manufacture of Swiss watches. This, they said, is vital for the protection of consumer confidence.

The Swiss watch industry, a major exporter, comprises 700 companies employing 60,000 people, according to Patrick Lötscher, Head of Watch Industry Standards Department (NIHS) at the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry FH.

Mr. Lötscher, together with Jonathan Jodry, Group Business Development Director at Metalor and the outgoing Chair of Technical Working Group 174 at ISO, and Dominique Dubugnon, a Special Projects Manager at Swatch Group Quality Management, presented to the 2024 CIBJO Congress an update on development of standards for natural diamonds and precious metals used in the watch industry.

The FH, which informs the Swiss watch industry on standards, aims to support and advance the industry with a focus on sustainability, transparency and reducing environmental impact.

A key focus presently is standards for natural diamonds used in the industry.

“The FH is really concerned about the naturalness of diamonds providing customer confidence in the diamond industry,” the association has said.

The Swiss watch industry has always been a major user of small diamonds, often in large volumes.

The industry uses the recommendations of the CIBJO Diamond Blue Book, which is designed to assist all those involved with diamonds and artificial products, by recording the accepted trade practices and nomenclature for the industry throughout the world.

It also follows ISO Standards, including those related to the grading of polished diamonds, including for single unmounted polished diamonds weighing over 0.25 carats, and for the inspection of batches of unmounted polished colourless diamonds with single mass smaller than or equal to 0.25 carats.

The FH requests that diamond producers provide reliable, well-documented information on the carbon footprint of rough diamond extraction, with priority on carbon dioxide emissions measured according to the Greenhouse Gas Protocol (scopes 1, 2, and 3), along with related energy consumption.

Documented information is also required about water usage throughout the extraction and production process, and information about the Impact on biodiversity, assessed using the most relevant impact metrics, and air and soil pollution caused by production activities.

To make effective use of this data, it is essential to receive a clear explanation of the methodologies used in these impact calculations, aligned with international standards, such as the GHG Protocol, and ISO standards.

Furthermore, it is necessary to obtain a detailed breakdown of the environmental impacts of diamonds used in watchmaking, categorized by quality and size, with an emission factor provided per carat of rough diamond, and to understand the variations in these impacts based on extraction location and type of exploitation

Miners are strongly encouraged to commit to a decarbonization plan for their operations, aligned with the 1.5 Celsius temperature goal of the Paris Agreement and based on scientific principles, Mr. Dubugnon said.

FH says such actions can help to achieve a high level of transparency, and to deliver a fair competition between market players and reduce risks of greenwashing.

“If it is based on standards with certification, it will help,” Mr Jodry said.

FH also reported to the CIBJO Congress about precious metals standards, and presented a discussion about the definition of recycled gold.

The definition of recycled gold is very important, impacting collectors, refiners, manufacturers and consumers, the industry delegates said.

“We need to define what is responsible sourcing of gold and precious metals,” Mr Jodry said.

ISO is presently working on a general requirement for responsible sourcing, including minimum rules for certifications and recycled gold, Mr. Jodry said.