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‘WE AS AN INDUSTRY SHOULD PROVIDE MORE GUARANTEES TO THE FINAL CONSUMER’

The perspective of the President of the World Diamond Council

Stéphane Fischler, the president of the World Diamond Council (WDC), is a third-generation diamantaire from Antwerp, Belgium, who began working in his family-owned company in 1979. He has a long history of public service in the diamond and jewellery industries.

He was among the founders of the WDC in 2000, serving as member of its steering committee until 2008, including a term as vice president starting in 2006. In 2012 he was invited to re-join the reconstituted WDC, and was elected its vice president in September 2016. In June of this year, he took over the presidency of the World Diamond Council. His mandate will end in May 2020.

Mr. Fischler also is chairman of the Antwerp World Diamond Centre (AWDC), the primary umbrella organisation representing Belgian diamond sector, having first been elected to the post in June 2012, and re-elected for two-year terms in 2014 and again in 2016.

In 2008, he was elected chairman of the International Diamond Council (IDC), a diamond grading and nomenclature body affiliated to the World Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB) and the International Diamond Manufacturers Association (IDMA). He resigned he position in 2015 and was asked to remain on as IDC vice president.

Mr. Fischler is currently vice president of SBD, the Belgian diamond manufacturers’ association; treasurer of IDMA; and a member of the Board of the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC). He has been member of the board of the Diamond Development Initiative (DDI) since 2006 and was it elected vice president in 2012.

Earlier this year, Mr. Fischler played a key role in the creation of the CIBJO European Jewellery Guild, which was formally established in Vicenza in September.

Mr. Fischler spoke to VOICES OF CIBJO on a wide range of topics, including the Kimberley Process and World Diamond Council, the integrity of the supply chain in the diamond and jewellery sector, cooperation between CIBJO and IDC, and the future role of the CIBJO European Jewellery Guild.

The World Diamond Council was established to represent the industry in the campaign to eliminate the trade in conflict diamonds. According to the accepted definition of conflict diamonds, does such a trade currently exist, and are there regions where the potential for such a trade remain high?

STÉPHANE FISCHLER: The KP was created to address a very specific issue. It was designed to create a platform or mechanism to stop the funding of conflict and violence by rebel groups against legitimate governments from being fuelled by diamonds. Today, 99 percent of all diamonds in the trade come from a conflict-free source.

However, the importance of the KP and the WDC remains crucial when it comes down to the future of the product we represent, as there are still areas where diamond mining may take place that suddenly becomes involved in armed conflict. There will always be new challenges, and we stand ready to address them.

 

How relevant is the current definition of conflict diamonds, and, if it is lacking, how may it be improved?

STÉPHANE FISCHLER: The idea of the KP has always been very narrow: to create a platform or mechanism to stop conflicts fuelled by diamonds. The mission has been completely accomplished.

The WDC has taken a very clear position, expressed in Vicenza in 2012, supporting a broadening of the scope of the certification scheme, focused on preventing the escalation of violence in mining areas. At the same time, we need to talk more inside the industry about how to provide confidence in all spheres—providing adequate protection to all stakeholders and in particular the most vulnerable.

We as an industry should provide more guarantees to the final consumer. That is our responsibility.

 

The Kimberley Process has in the past struggled to find consensus on a number of issues, including the definition of conflict diamonds. In its current structure, do you feel that it is able to resolve contentious matters. If not, how may this be remedied?

STÉPHANE FISCHLER: As the KP is comprised of representatives from 81 governments, 40-plus industry groups and many non-government organizations (NGOs) and associations, of course consensus building among such a diverse group is more complex than with other smaller and simpler organisations. The KP is no different than any other international process, where a very large amount of countries is involved, each with its own specificity and interest, and where politics do play a major role.

Factoring in these complexities, the KP has created a set of processes and protocols that help overcome these challenges such as review visits and the peer review mechanism. Though there is always room to improve the efficiency of conflict resolution and decision making within the KP, we have seen important progress using our processes, for example bringing back Ivory Coast after its exclusion within the process.

Having said that, the KP has been so far comparatively very successful. I hope that an inclusive and respectfully managed process can achieve further progress.

 

The Kimberley Process Certification Scheme is essentially government run and monitored, while more contemporary responsible sourcing systems, like Dodd Frank in the United States and the more recent conflict minerals regulation in Europe shift the responsibility to companies, often applying the OECD due diligence guidance. Do you think the pendulum has moved, and how may this affect what is expected from the diamond industry?

STÉPHANE FISCHLER: Ensuring that conflict stones remain out of the global diamond supply chain is a responsibility that is shared by all parties, not just governments.  It starts at the beginning with those that focus on mining and discovery, through groups that handle rough and polished, and extends through manufacturing and retail right to the end consumer. The main task of the diamond market is to show that it is able to self-regulate, as is the case with the WDC System of Warranties, and ensure the integrity of entire sales chain.

 

In terms of the way in which its chain of supply is monitored, should the diamond sector be treated differently to other sectors in the greater jewellery industry? If so, why?

STÉPHANE FISCHLER: I believe the diamond industry has been at the vanguard of these issues well before precious metals and other gems.

We are happy to note the impressive efforts made especially by the precious metal industry.

 

The World Diamond Council’s statutes definitely describe its area of interest as conflict diamonds and matters related to the Kimberley Process.  How do you see the World Diamond Council as evolving, and where does it take its place among the other representative organisations active in the gemstone and jewellery industry?

STÉPHANE FISCHLER: Indeed, the mandate of the World Diamond Council is focused on the rough diamond supply. As well as having created the System of Warranties to complement the KPCS, the WDC provides the only platform for members to discuss important issues pertaining to conflict diamonds and the KP, as we represent the entire diamond pipeline through our association.

The WDC allows the international diamond industry to have a single, united voice that is representative of the entire diamond supply chain, from mine to retail.

In practice, the WDC is actively involved in the work of the KP, providing the functioning of the KP Administrative Support Mechanism, for example. It is involved in the daily work of all KP Working Groups, among other things participating in review visits and missions to KP participating countries, providing technical expertise to the monitoring teams as needed, and chairing the KP’s Working Group of Diamond Experts-WGDE.

In one sentence, our role is to ensure that the end product, manufactured out of the raw material and set in jewellery, is untainted.

 

What is the role played by the representative organisations within the World Diamond Council, and, given the fact that each represents many companies, should they have a status that is different from those WDC members that are individual companies?

STÉPHANE FISCHLER: The WDC is indeed the only representative industry organization representing the whole of the diamond value chain. Continuous dialogue with all industry stakeholders is key to the WDC. We talk and listen to our members, whether they represent many companies on individual companies.

Since last year the WDC has been developing an active communications strategy in order to better inform the industry and our members, and make clear what the KP and the WDC are doing to support diamond mining countries and their populations and keep the supply chain conflict free.

The role of representative organizations, member of the WDC, is to ensure proper education and support within its very vast membership for the industry self-regulatory mechanisms.

 

There has been concern expressed in the industry that cumbersome and sometimes expensive due diligence compliance systems may have the effect of pushing some of the smaller players out of the business, because they lack the necessary financial means and personnel. Is such concern justified and how does once prevent such a situation?

STÉPHANE FISCHLER: We are very much aware of this concern. Consumer interest in the origin of diamonds grows. This is largely due to the new information environment in which we live. An important challenge for the diamond market is to show that it is able to self-regulate and ensure the entire sales chain. The industry is very much focused on ensuring ethical practices from mine to retail.

I believe the self-regulation in place throughout the industry is not burdensome and constitute an impediment to growth. It is our common responsibility to provide adequate support to those experiencing difficulties in understanding or implementing to proposed processes.

 

You played an active role in the establishment of the CIBJO European Jewellery Guild, which was established earlier this month to provide a united voice for members of the industry in Europe. What do feel that a body of this type will be able to achieve?

STÉPHANE FISCHLER: It is an idea that, together with Benadette Pinet-Cuoq, Gaetano Cavalieri and Charles Chaussepied, we took to fruition. It has been long overdue and I believe will contribute to streamline and benefit the European industry’s effort in achieving a constructive dialogue with the European Union, and enhancing European value addition.

 

At the upcoming CIBJO Congress in Bangkok, there will once again discussion about the CIBJO Blue Book relative to the International Diamond Council’s grading system.  As a past IDC chairman, how do you view this relationship?

STÉPHANE FISCHLER: I can definitely say, and it is my personal opinion that we are now at a point where the two major nomenclature organisations must be focused on building a unified foundation for the benefit of our industry.

‘WE AS AN INDUSTRY SHOULD PROVIDE MORE GUARANTEES TO THE FINAL CONSUMER’2017-12-07T11:56:14+00:00

CIBJO seminar in Vicenza looks at impact on jewellery industry of new EU conflict minerals legislation and strategies for dealing with its requirements

The significance and potential impact on the jewellery industry of Regulation (EU) 2017/821, which will control the import into the European Union of gold, tin, tantalum and tungsten from conflict and high-risk areas, came under the spotlight at a seminar for the jewellery industry in Vicenza on September 24, organised by CIBJO and the Italian Exhibition Group.

Participants were welcomed by Gaetano Cavalieri, CIBJO’s President, and by Matteo Marzotto, IEG’s Executive Vice President.

The seminar, which was moderated by Philip Olden, a consultant to Signet Jewelers and the former managing director of the World Gold Council, brought together a panel of expert speakers, representing government, international and European organisations, business standards organisations and the jewellery, precious metals and gemstone industries.

Panel members included Marten Westrup, Coordinator of Energy and Raw Materials at the European Commission, DG Trade; Hannah Koep-Andrieu, Policy Adviser-Extractives in the Responsible Business Conduct division at the Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD);  France Capon, Secretary General of the European Precious Metals Federation (EPMF); Andrew Bone, Executive Director of the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC); Sakhila Mirza, Executive Board Director and General Counsel of the London Bullion Market Association (LBMA); Stephane Fischler, Acting President of the World Diamond Council (WDC); and Francesca Angeloni, Business Development Manager Europe Jewellery and Watch Industry in the Consumer & Retail Services division of UL.

While the regulatory regime established by the new law will be fully enforced only from January 2021, providing sufficient time for businesses to adapt to its provisions, its basic framework has been outlined in the legislation that was passed by the European Parliament in May.  But there are still benchmarks, procedures and requirements that need to be formulated by the European Commission, which will be providing guidance to the business community

Matteo Marzotto (left), Executive Vice President of the Italian Exhibition Group, and Gaetano Cavalieri, President of CIBJO, welcoming participants to the seminar in Vicenza.

Philip Olden, seminar moderator.

in the months ahead. This will include a white list of approved refineries and smelters, located both inside and outside of the EU, from which purchases of gold will not trigger automatic third-party auditing requirements.

Mr. Westrup explained that the EU’s approach to conflict minerals and the recently enacted regulation has the main objective of ensuring sufficient supply chain due diligence in imports of gold and 3Ts from conflict-affected and high-risk areas.

Mr. Westrup noted that the four-year lead-in time before the requirements are to be met and the setting of thresholds below which importers are exempt from the legal requirements for due diligence are in part meant to meet the concerns of small and medium-sized enterprises. He explained that the thresholds set out in the regulation (100 kilogram per annum for gold) are intended to ensure that at least 95 percent of imports of each metal or mineral are covered, while at the same time underlining that companies without legal obligations under the EU regulation also should carry out due diligence as far as possible.

Ms. Koep-Andrieu noted that the five-step process outlined in the OECD’s Due Diligence Guidance for Responsible Supply Chains of Minerals from Conflict-Affected and High-Risk Areas forms the basis of the new EU regulations, and that all companies could begin integrating its requirements into their systems of management, so as to become compliant with the new regime before 2021, regardless of size. She also pointed out that the guidance is applicable to all minerals, and not only gold and the 3Ts.

Ms. Capon outlined the efforts already taken by the members of the European Precious Metals Federation to ensure that the gold they are importing is subject to the type of due diligence outlined in the new EU regulations. She also was critical about the 100-kilogram threshold, saying that it undermined the efforts of other companies seeking to become compliant, while suggesting that it be reduced significantly or eliminated completely.

Noting that membership in the Responsible Jewellery Council has long passed the 1,000-company mark, Mr. Bone described the organisation as the leading

responsible business standards organisation in the jewellery sector. The RJC Code of Practices, which is an international standard of responsible business practices for diamonds, gold and platinum group metals, accommodates the OECD guidelines, and, if one is RJC-certified, compliance with the new EU regulations will be easily achieved, he said.

Ensuring the integrity of the precious metals market, Ms. Mirza, said that LBMA’s Responsible Gold Guidance helps ensure the long-term integrity of the wholesale gold business.

The LBMA good delivery list, which is widely recognised as the de facto standard for precious metals markets around the world as to what refiners’ gold and silver bars are acceptable, today includes 71 gold refiners from 31 countries, accounting for 85 percent to 90 percent of world production. Its due diligence standards are also compliant with the OECD guidance document, Ms. Mirza said.

Relating the experience of the diamond industry in implementing a rigid regulatory system to stem the flow of minerals financing conflict, Mr. Fischler noted that the Kimberley Process Certification Scheme differs from the EU regulations in that places a significant burden on government, while the European system focuses its attention predominantly on company self-regulation. Nonetheless, he added, while government is more directly involved in monitoring rough diamond imports and exports, diamond companies still need do due diligence, both in maintaining records of KP certificates in the rough diamond trade, and in complying with the WDC System of Warranties in the polished diamond business. While the approach of the Kimberley Process differs from that of the OECD guidance, Mr. Fischler said he is supportive of the principles expressed in the OECD document, and stressed that the industry in general needs to promote a mutual commitment to “a duty of care.”

Ms. Angeloni provided the perspective of one of the largest companies conducting third-party audits in the jewellery industry, presenting a checklist of procedures that companies will need to undergo in order to achieve compliance with the new EU regulations. She also announced that UL is developing a toolkit together with CIBJO, which will serve as a roadmap for companies in navigating the new regulatory regime.

In his concluding remarks, Mr. Olden remarked that, while the introduction of the EU regulations will represent a formative moment for both the precious metals and jewellery sectors, the seminar demonstrated that systems are already in place to make compliance more achievable than some may have feared. “If you insist that your bank buy only from LBMA-approved refiners, and you are certified by a code of practices such as that of the Responsible Jewellery Council, then in all likelihood you will have in place all the various elements required to become compliant,” he said.

Mr. Olden proposed that the speakers on stage endorse the following statement: “This panel supports the principles of duty of care and supply chain due diligence. We encourage participants in the jewellery supply chain to engage with industry organisations to ensure compliance with industry guidance and standards relating to responsible sourcing.” The speakers supported the resolution.

 

PRESENTATIONS

MARTEN WESTRUP
Coordinator of Energy and Raw Materials, European Commission, DG Trade
Coordinating the approach to energy and raw materials in the Directorate-General for Trade of the European Commission, with a special focus on conflict minerals, Mr. Westrup previously was a team leader in the Directorate-General for Energy, primarily driving forward the EU’s approach to renewable energy, energy efficiency and Greenhouse Gas reductions in a 2030 perspective.

HANNAH KOEP-ANDRIEU
Policy Adviser-Extractives in the Responsible Business Conduct division,  Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD)
Today focusing on extractives and supply chain due diligence, Ms. Koep-Andrieu  has extensive field experience. She has worked on risk and impact assessments in the extractives sector, with a focus on stakeholder engagement, artisanal mining, security and human rights issues.

FRANCE CAPON
Secretary General,European Precious Metals Federation (EPMF)
Ms. Capon is responsible for representing the European Precious Metals Federation (EPMF), as well as for managing the projects and associated budgets  of the EPMF and Precious Metals & Rhenium consortium, while guarding the application of the articles of the association and the internal rules of the federation.

ANDREW BONE
Executive Director, Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC)
Following a long and successful career at De Beers, during which he was instrumental in setting up the World Diamond Council and the formation of the Kimberley Process, for the  past two years Mr. Bone has headed the management team at the jewellery industry’s largest responsible business standards organisation.

SAKHILA MIRZA
Executive Board Director and General Counsel, London Bullion Market Association (LBMA)
Ms. Mirza is responsible for all the legal and regulatory work of LBMA and that of London Precious Metals Clearing Limited (LPMCL).  Her role involves the LBMA’s work in relation to responsible sourcing, and lobbying efforts on behalf of members on a wide range of regulatory issues, including EU conflict minerals regulation.

STEPHANE FISCHLER
Acting President, World Diamond Council
A founding member of the World Diamond Council, Mr. Fischler has headed the body since June 2017. He is treasurer of the International Diamond Manufacturers Association, a member of the board of the Responsible Jewellery Council, vice president of the Diamond Development Initiative, and the current president of the Antwerp World Diamond Center (AWDC).

FRANCESCA ANGELONI
Business Development Manager Europe Jewellery and Watch Industry, Consumer & Retail Services, UL
Ms. Angeloni is responsible for inspections, testing and responsible sourcing services related to the jewellery sector at UL. After beginning her career in fine jewellery retail in Italy, she later worked as a diamond advisor and  jewellery expert for for the HSE24 TV Channel. She is a co-founder of an Italian fashion jewellery line.

PHOTO CREDIT FOR ALL IMAGES: La Presse
CIBJO seminar in Vicenza looks at impact on jewellery industry of new EU conflict minerals legislation and strategies for dealing with its requirements2017-12-07T11:56:19+00:00

A partnership spanning continents brings hope to the survivors of genocide in Rwanda

Jennifer Ewah is the founder and creative director of Eden Diodati, a jewellery brand committed to fulfilling a social function, which is assisting the creation of sustainable and dignified employment for disadvantaged people in Rwanda. An Oxford-trained lawyer, she balances a legal career with one of a jewellery designer. She is the winner of numerous awards, including the International Sustainable Brand of the Year 2013 outside of Latin America, from the Centre for Study of Sustainable Luxury, and she is a Fellow of Ethical Fashion Forum’s 500 Ethical Leaders around the World.

 

By Jennifer Ewah

The story I am about to tell is about jewellery and its impact on humanity. It is a tale of rebirth through creativity and personal journey, and about a group of remarkably brave and resilient women from Rwanda, seeking to rebuild their lives following the devastation of civil war and genocide.

I myself am not Rwandan, and originally was not even a jeweller. I come from a family of medics and politicians from Nigeria. I providentially studied law at Oxford University, and that compelled me to move further towards the path of social justice, combined with progressive philanthropy.

But I always had a creative inclination. Growing up in the environment that I did, the Benin bronzes, a group of more than one thousand metal plaques and sculptures that once decorated the royal palace of the Benin Kingdom, in what is today Nigeria, provided a constant reminder of the rich artistic legacy of the African continent. Inspired by my home and heritage, I began designing and drawing from age three, and many years later, after studying at Central St Martins, the London College of Fashion, and than at Beaux Arts in Paris, I discovered my true métier.

I established in Eden Diodati in 2015 as a socially sustainable luxury jewellery brand. A key component of its operation was and still remains a partnership with a social cooperative in East Africa, which serves formerly marginalised women artisans, many of whom experienced personally the horrors of the genocide in Rwanda in 1994.  The brand’s name evokes the utopian garden from the Book of Genesis, but also pays tribute to Giovanni Diodati (1576-1649), the Swiss-born Italian theologian, who was the first translator of the Bible into Italian from its orginal Hebrew and Greek. He was a pioneer.

The Rwandan cooperative with which we partner was founded by two sisters in Kigali, both with a jewellery design background. They organised what was then about 20 women, teaching them how to weave and bead, and then to enhance their skills with new techniques. After gathering under its umbrella more orphaned and widowed women, the organisation today provides work for more than 5,000 female survivors, organized into 52 smaller cooperatives. Many of its members are living with HIV and AIDS after experiencing gender-based violence during the conflict.

Master weavers from the Rwandan cooperative, two of 5,000 women now involved in the creation of jewellery pieces headed for the world’s luxury markets, alongside a gold neckpiece highlighted by beading by Eden Diodati.

Eden Diodati was brand born out of my desire to capture the compassion, empathy and strength that is at the heart of the beauty of the women that I know – my mother, a doctor, being the foremost example. Its artistic style is but one aspect of its mission. Social activism is another.

My vision was to evoke beauty through crafting luxury pieces with a strong, beautiful aesthetic, yet also to commit to love for others. The ethical aspect of our supply chain is not independent of its visual aspect; it informs, inspires and sustains people and communities in the most fundamental way.

For me, talking to the founders of this Rwandan cooperative felt like the first of a series of little miracles. “The Garden of Eden” is not found in perfect circumstances, but in courageous daily acts of love, forgiveness and generosity such as those shown gracefully by the women towards each other – Hutu and Tutsi working side by side.

Employing centuries-old artisanal heritage with comptempory technique, the Rwandan women’s courage, skill, fortitude and faith help challenging pre-conceptions of “Made in Africa.” Our goal is to shift paradigms in high-end jewellery and bring to market ethical luxury, within a brand context, affording priority to craftsmanship, provenance and elevated design.

Jeanette is our lead craftswoman and Eden Diodati’s project manager artisan within the Master Weavers of my partner cooperative. She was orphaned during the genocide and was the sole survivor in her entire family. Today, we see her transformed through the community of the cooperative. She is a confident, elegant and creative woman who holds firmly to an immutable sense of personal gifting, despite the trauma of the beginning of her life.

Another master weaver, Sada, contracted HIV through gender-based violence during the conflict. She struggles daily with the scourge of her illness. Her deep courage, smile and femininity is almost always in my mind, and her courage represents the cornerstone of what Eden Diodati is. It is a brand providing sustainable income to formerly marginalised artisans, but it is also a conduit that exposes humanity  through the light of love and solidarity. Each piece reflect the stories of craftswomen who had the breath-taking courage to look up beyond dark circumstances, in order to be sustained symbiotically by the work of their hands and the inherent creativity of their souls.

Reflecting how this celebration of artisanal heritage transcends cultures, Eden Diodati works on the opposite side of the globe in Italy where the metal components are manufactured by a Responsible Jewellery Council-accredited partner. These are then combined with the beaded elements produced in Rwanda. Our story represents collaboration across continents for positive social good. All the while, a geo-continental amalgam of global cultures influences the design.

We do not compromise. Although we are committed to providing sustainable employment to formerly marginalised and vulnerable women, our collections are design-led and of exceptionally high quality, to ensure that luxury customers who want to invest in our pieces receive the value they deserve. Our circle of ethical production enables clients to empower women sustainably, and enables our clientele the opportunity to experience beauty through compassion.

Eden Diodati donates 10 percent of shareholder dividends to Médecins Sans Frontières, which is also known as Doctors Without Borders. It is an international NGO, established by a group of doctors and journalists in France in 1971, which is best known for its projects in war-torn regions and developing countries affected by endemic diseases, and whose survival is threatened by violence, neglect and catastrophe, primarily due to armed conflict. In 1999 MSF was awarded the Nobel Peace Prize.

The exhilarating reality of our story and my journey has always been and always will be the people and relationships built through it, from young, talented friends and colleagues, to visionary Rwandan social business leaders. Creative and emotional bonds have formed, and common understandings of purpose and trust have developed. I, and all those I work with closely, have a desire to see sustainable luxury brought to the fore of mainstream consciousness.

The depth of what this brand means to me is indescribable. It is the pursuit of my heart, and is why I face all challenges with optimism and faith.

Love is my inspiration, and love never fails.

A partnership spanning continents brings hope to the survivors of genocide in Rwanda2017-12-07T11:56:25+00:00

Seminar in Vicenza focuses on practical steps required to ensure responsible sourcing

Matteo Marzotto, Vice Executive President of the Italian Exhibition Group, welcoming participants to the seminar.

 

Gabriele Aprea, President of Club degli Orafi, addressing the seminar.

 

Dr. Wilfried Hoerner, Chairman of the Responsible Jewellery Council and co-CEO at Argor-Heraeus SA, delivering a keynote presentation on responsible sourcing in the precious metals sector.

 

Andrew Bone, Executive Director of the of the Responsible Jewellery Council, providing an overview of his organisation to the seminar.

 

Daphne Guelker (left), Responsible Sourcing Program Manager at UL Consumer and Retail Services, and Francesca Angeloni, Business Development Manager for the Jewelry and Watch Industry in Europe at UL Consumer and Retail Services.

 

Transparent methods of ensuring the integrity of the jewellery industry’s chain of distribution were the focus of a seminar held during the VICENZAORO January trade fair on January 22, 2017, in Vicenza, Italy, hosted by CIBJO, the Italian Exhibition Group (IEG), and Club degli Orafi. The seminar was part of a series of educational events organized by CIBJO and IEG, and is part of their joint programme that is endorsed by the United Nations Economic and Social Council (ECOSOC), to support Corporate Social Responsibility and sustainability in the jewellery sector.

The seminar examined practical steps that need to be taken by companies, working at different stages along the chain of distribution, to ensure that the materials they have sourced were obtained and handled in a manner that complies with responsible business standards. The seminar was moderated by Dr. Gaetano Cavalieri, CIBJO President, and participants were also welcomed by Matteo Marzotto, IEG Vice Executive President, and Gabriele Aprea, President of Club degli Orafi

Speakers and members of the audience gather on the podium, following the CSR seminar at VICENZAORO on January 22, 2017, hosted by CIBJO, the Italian Exhibition Group and Club degli Orafi.

Among the organisations presenting at the seminar were the Responsible Jewellery Council, a key international standards-setting and certification organisation for the jewellery industry, which has formulated the RJC Code of Practices – an international standard on responsible business practices for diamonds, gold and platinum group metals. The code addresses human rights, labour rights, environmental impact, mining practices, product disclosure and other topics in the jewellery supply chain. It is supported by standards guidance, an assessment manual, and tools and training to support implementation and audits.

RJC also has created the RJC Chain of Custody Standard, which is applicable to precious metals such as gold, platinum, palladium and rhodium, which is based on its Code of Practices, as well as other comparable standards. Among other things it covers artisanal and small-scale mining and gold refiner due diligence audits.

Also participating was UL, one of the world’s largest providers of supply chain auditing and monitoring services. Its Jewellery Division conducts testing and quality assurance, carries out audits and assessments, including those associated with social impacts, and provides responsible sourcing solutions, including capacity building, training and education.

UL is one of the most prominent organisations in the jewellery industry conducting third party audits to ensure that individual companies comply with a variety of standards, including the RJC Code of Practices and Chain of Custody Standard, the EICC-GeSI Conflict Free Smelter Program, the Fairmined Standard for Gold from Artisanal Mining, the Fairtrade Standard for Gold, the London Bullion Market Association (LBMA) Responsible Gold Good Delivery standards, and others.

Seminar presenters (from left): Gabriele Aprea, President of Club degli Orafi; Gaetano Cavalieri, President of CIBJO; Matteo Marzotto, Vice Executive President of the Italian Exhibition Group; Francesca Angeloni, Business Development Manager for the Jewelry and Watch Industry in Europe at UL Consumer and Retail Services; Wilfried Hoerner, Chairman of the Responsible Jewellery Council and co-CEO at Argor-Heraeus SA; Daphne Guelker, Responsible Sourcing Program Manager at UL Consumer and Retail Services; and Andrew Bone, Executive Director of the of the Responsible Jewellery Council.

Among the keynote speakers were the following:

Dr. Wilfried Hoerner, who was elected chairman of the Board of Directors of the Responsible Jewellery Council in June 2017. He is also Associate and co-CEO of Argor-Heraeus, and during his more than 36-year association with the company has filled a variety of key roles, both at its headquarters in Switzerland and at its large subsidiary in Hong Kong. Argor-Heraeus has been a key player in introducing responsible sourcing practices in the precious metals sector, and Dr. Hoerner has played a critical role in this regard, representing the company in dealing with organisations such as RJC, the London Bullion Market Association, the World Gold Council, the Swiss Better Gold Association, the OECD, Fachvereiigung für Edelmettalle (the consultative panel that advises the European Union on responsible sourcing legislation), and Eurometaux, which an umbrella association representing the interests of the non-ferrous metals industry towards EU policy makers. He also enjoys close relations with the governments of mining countries in Latin America.

Andy Bone, who has has served as Executive Director of the Responsible Jewellery Council since June 2015. He joined RJC after a 38-year career at De Beers, beginning his career as a rough diamond expert, and living and working for six years in central Africa. For his last 15 years at the group, he headed its Government & Industry Relations division, where he contributed to the development and implementation of the Kimberley Process, co-founded the Diamond Development Initiative, served on the board of the Extractive Industries Transparency Initiative and was Vice President of the World Diamond Council.

 Francesca Angeloni, UL’s Business Development Manager for the European Jewellery and Watch Industry, with responsibility for developing a new business strategy in Europe. She brought to the position many years of professional jewellery experience, as an investment diamond advisor, as an on-air TV jewellery sales  expert for HSE24 and as owner of  a personal jewellery line.  She began her career as a sales professional in a jewellery store in Italy.

Daphne Guelker, UL’s Responsible Sourcing Program Manager Consumer and Retails Services. She is a qualified lawyer who leads law and international standards research efforts in support of UL’s social and environmental auditing services in more than 100 countries.

CIBJO President Gaetano Cavalieri introducing members of the panel and the Jewellery Supply Chain Integrity seminar on January 22, 2017.

Download the presentations delivered at the Jewellery Supply Chain Integrity seminar:

Matteo Marzotto, Vice Executive President of the Italian Exhibition Group [Welcome in PDF]

Gaetano Cavalieri, President of CIBJO. [Moderator’s introduction in PDF]

Gabriele Aprea, President of Club degli Orafi [Presentation in PowerPoint]

Wilfried Hoerner, Chairman of the Responsible Jewellery Council and co-CEO at Argor-Heraeus SA [Presentation in PDF]

Andrew Bone, Executive Director of the of the Responsible Jewellery Council [Presentation in PowerPoint]

Francesca Angeloni, Business Development Manager for the Jewelry and Watch Industry in Europe at UL Consumer and Retail Services, &  Daphne Guelker, Responsible Sourcing Program Manager at UL Consumer and Retail Services [Presentation in PowerPoint]

Seminar in Vicenza focuses on practical steps required to ensure responsible sourcing2017-12-07T11:56:27+00:00

The next great consumer generation under the spotlight at CIBJO-Fiera di Vicenza seminar

Millennials use multiple source of information in making purchasing decisions, said CIBJO President Gaetano Cavalieri in his welcome to participants to the CIBJO/Fiera di Vicenza Millennials seminar.

 

Millennials are more likely to buy from companies that support causes they approve of, said Corrado Facco, Managing Director of Fiera di Vicenza and President of CIBJO’s Trade Fair Commission, during his welcome.

 

Seminar moderator Steven Benson, CIBJO’s Communications Director.

 

Arguably the most substantial reconsideration in recent decades of the way in which diamond jewellery should be promoted and sold was the focus of a seminar held September 4, 2016, the second day of the VICENZAORO September trade fair in Vicenza, Italy. Entitled “The Challenge of Marketing to Millennials: The Next Great Consumer Generation,” the event was co-organised by CIBJO and Fiera di Vicenza.

Born between 1980 and 2000, the Millennials represent one of the largest generations in history, and its members are about to move into their prime spending years. The unique experiences of Millennial consumers will change the ways the jewellery industry promotes and sells, and the manner in which it communicates with its customers. This will require companies to examine how they do business.

As the most heterogeneous generation ever in terms background and ethnicity, the Millennials grew up in digital society, where online and mobile skills were not learned but simply acquired. This changed the way they perceive the world, and how they interact among themselves and with others.

Costantino Papadimitriou, Senior Vice President Brand Strategy and Innovation at Forevermark at De Beers, addressing the audience.

 

“When we market our products to Millennials, we no longer are able to get the exclusive attention of our clients,” said CIBJO President Gaetano Cavalieri, welcoming the crowd of participants that filled the room.” They have easy access to large amounts of information. They are more inclined to do research before buying, and they consult with their friends before making a decision.”

Importantly, when it comes to purchasing decisions, Millennial consumers are considerably more likely to consider issues such as product integrity, sustainability and the social responsibility. Studies show that they are nearly twice as likely to purchase from a brand because of its social and or environmental impact.

“Already today, Millennials represent more than $2.45 trillion in spending power, and it is a number that will grow substantially,” said Corrado Facco, Managing Director of Fiera di Vicenza, who also serves as President of CIBJO’s Trade Show Commission, during his welcome to seminar participants. “According to a research carried out by Cone Communications, up to 70 percent of them will spend more on brands that support causes they care about.”

Seminar presenters (from left): Jean-Marc Lieberherr, CEO of the Diamond Producers Association, which is about to introduce the industry’s first sustained generic marketing campaign in 10 years, which will mainly be directed at Millennials; Roberto Coin, the leading Italian jewellery designer and brand developer; Ella Goldner, Global Strategy Director at IPG Mediabrands in London; Costantino Papadimitriou, head of global communication strategy and campaigns, and brand innovation at De Beers’ Forevermark; and  CIBJO President Gaetano Cavalieri.

At VicenzaOro September, CIBJO and Fiera di Vicenza convened what almost certainly was one the most expert panels ever gathered to consider the topic. It included:

  • Ella Goldner a Global Strategy Director at IPG Mediabrands in London, which is part of an advertising and marketing network that includes McCann World Group, Lowe and Partners and FCB. She specializes in marketing to Millennials, developing campaigns that meet their requirements, and delivering and reinforcing their content using new media tools.
  • Jean-Marc Lieberherr,  CEO of the Diamond Producers Association, which has taken upon itself the task of reintroducing category or generic marketing for the diamond jewellery sector. He earlier served as Managing Director of Rio Tinto Diamonds, and before joining the diamond industry worked in international sales and marketing positions with LVMH and Unilever.
  • Costantino Papadimitriou, who is responsible for global communication strategy and campaigns, as well as brand innovation, at De Beers’ Forevermark, which is far and away has the largest advertising budget in the diamond jewellery sector. He leads Forevermark’s London-based communication team as well as its Milan based Design and Innovation Centre. Previously he worked for J. Walter Thompson for 27 years.
  • Roberto Coin, President, owner and visionary of the Roberto Coin Group and brand, which is sold in more than 1,000 outlets in 62 countries. Acutely aware of the growing sentiment among consumers for issues related to CSR and sustainability, in 2013 was recognized by Fiera di Vicenza, which named him a winner of an Andrea Palladio International Jewellery Awards for Best Corporate Social Responsibility Brand.

The moderator of the seminar was Steven Benson, CIBJO’s Director of Communications.

 

Download the presentations delivered at the Millennials seminar:

Ella Goldner, Global Strategy Director at IPG Mediabrands, London. [Presentation in PowerPoint]

Jean-Marc Lieberherr, CEO Diamond Producers’ Association [Presentation in PowerPoint]

Costantino Papadimitriou, Senior Vice President Brand Strategy and Innovation of Forevermark at De Beers [Presentation in PowerPoint]

Roberto Coin, leading Italian jewellery designer and brand innovator [Presentation in PDF]

Steven Benson, CIBJO Communications Director [Moderator’s presentation in PowerPoint] [Moderator’s notes in PDF]

The next great consumer generation under the spotlight at CIBJO-Fiera di Vicenza seminar2017-12-07T11:56:33+00:00

CIBJO participates in Chicago workshop investigating nickel allergies

Recent data has indicated that, while in the European Union the prevalence of nickel allergies is decreasing, in North America it continues to rise slowly but steadily. What differentiates the two regions is that, while in Europe legislation restricting nickel release from articles intended to come into direct and prolonged contact with the skin and in post assemblies has been enforceable for more than 15 years, in North America no such restrictions on nickel use exist.

Concerned by this situation, in June 2016 the Nickel Institute facilitated in Chicago a workshop on Nickel Allergic Contact Dermatitis (NACD) in North America, to consider the measures required to reduce its prevalence and incidence. CIBJO was invited to provide the perspective the jewellery industry.

The Nickel Institute is a global association of the world’s primary nickel producers, who together account for approximately 85 percent of worldwide annual nickel production outside China. Its mission is to promote and support the use of nickel in appropriate applications.

CIBJO was represented in Chicago by Marion Wilson, from the Assay Office Birmingham in the United Kingdom, who has worked closely with the nickel specialists in the Assay Office’s testing facility, the AnchorCert Analytical Laboratory.

AnchorCert Analytical is globally respected for its expertise in the field of precious metals testing, and specifically recognised for its knowledge with regards to nickel testing.  It has encouraged the U.K. trade to comply with the nickel legislation since its inception in 2000. It is the only laboratory in the world to offer a quick nickel release testing, reducing the reporting time from 10 days to just five working days.

The event in Chicago gathered leading U.S. dermatologists, scientists, metallurgists, downstream users of nickel, industry representatives and regulatory experts. The ultimate goal was to prevent nickel sensitisation in the population and the occurrence of nickel allergic contact dermatitis in those already sensitised. A number of paths forward were identified.

Marion Wilson, from the Assay Office Birmingham in the United Kingdom, who represented CIBJO at the Nickel Allergic Contact Dermatitis workshop in Chicago, addressing the event.

Ms. Wilson delivered a presentation outlining lessons learned from the European experience. She encouraged North America to develop a clear, straightforward approach and to engage with the industry from the outset.

“We have learned a huge amount about nickel release and compliance and I was very happy to share our experiences with the Americans on behalf of CIBJO,” she said. “The number of changes to the legislation and related standards to assess compliance as well as the controversial ‘No Decision’ status for borderline results have been obstacles to understanding and enforcement, and it is really important that the Americans use the benefits of our experience to create a workable system whether it be voluntary or mandatory.”

Dr. Katherine Heim, the nickel allergy specialist at the Nickel Producers Environmental Research Association (NiPERA), who organised the event said: “The workshop in Chicago was the first time that such a broad range of experts on different aspects of nickel and nickel allergy have met in North America to focus on how we can together combat this allergy. It is important that physicians, parents and patients are equipped with the accurate information they need to reduce the risk of nickel allergy, especially in children.”

“The nickel industry wants nickel to be used appropriately and we welcome the constructive dialogue from participants at the workshop. We look forward to working with downstream users of nickel as well as clinicians to share our knowledge of the essential nature of nickel and the best way to use it to avoid risk of nickel sensitisation,” Dr. Heim stated.

‘We look forward to working with downstream users of nickel as well as clinicians to share our knowledge of the essential nature of nickel and the best way to use it to avoid risk of nickel sensitisation,’ said Dr. Katherine Heim, the nickel allergy specialist at the Nickel Producers Environmental Research Association (NiPERA), who organised the workshop in Chicago.

CIBJO participates in Chicago workshop investigating nickel allergies2017-12-07T11:56:36+00:00
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