September 26, 2018

With fewer than three weeks to go to the opening of the 2018 CIBJO Congress in Bogotá, Colombia, on October 15, 2018, the seventh of the CIBJO commissions’ Special Reports has been released. Prepared by the CIBJO Pearl Commission, headed by Kenneth Scarratt, it focuses on the growing commitment of pearl farmers from around the world to set the golden standard for sustainability in a marine environment.

“Mankind’s impact on the earth’s environment is not simply related to saving the elephants, lions and the rhinoceros, or wild orchids, while these have great urgency. But they are no greater than the significant issues surrounding how we control the massive volume of rubbish generated globally that enters our oceans and seas,” wrote Mr. Scarratt.

Surveying a list of ongoing projects from the Philippines to Australia, the Indonesian archipelago to West Papua, and Fiji to Bahrain, Mr. Scarratt describes a community whose long-term livelihood is dependent on its ability to maintain a pristine ocean environment, and to provide economic opportunity to the far-flung indigenous communities where pearling is carried out.

“Pearl farming has often been described as ecological aquaculture,” notes Mr. Scarratt, quoting the Blue Pledge, a new initiative that aims to unite pearl farmers who actionably seek to contribute to the health of the oceans and the global climate. “Pearl oysters are filter feeders that require pristine water conditions in order to produce high-quality pearls. They are also recognised as an indicator species, meaning that any decline in water quality has a direct impact on oyster health, pearl quality, and oyster mortality.”

“Thus, while the world around us appears to be desperately struggling with man’s ineptitudes, let us take comfort in the fact that our pearling community can stand proudly as shining examples to the rest of humanity,” Mr. Scarratt writes.

To download a full copy of the CIBJO Pearl Commission’s special report, PLEASE CLICK HERE.

September 19, 2018

With fewer than four weeks to go to the opening of the 2018 CIBJO Congress in Bogotá, Colombia, on October 15, 2018, the sixth of the CIBJO commissions’ Special Reports has been released. Prepared by the CIBJO Gemmological Commission, headed by Hanco Zwaan, it reveals the results of a survey of 23 gemmological laboratories from around the world, about whether and how they report on synthetic and treated diamonds.

“The survey provided a clear picture of the similarities and differences on the reports issued by the various laboratories, and perhaps also suggested the requirements and preferences of different markets around the globe,” wrote Mr. Zwaan. “Overall the nomenclature used by laboratories is clear about the nature of the stones described, but there are inconsistencies with regard to the precise terms used, and whether or not grading of synthetic and/or treated stones is permitted.”

The special report also provides details about a document prepared by the Gemmological Commission, which it intends will come to serve as a reference point for the industry in the way that it deals with commercial colour terms such as “pigeon blood red” and “royal blue.” Other subjects discussed include how professional opinions can or should be presented separately on laboratory reports, and the necessary standards for governing the use of varietal names for different gemstones.

To download a full copy of the CIBJO Gemmological Commission’s special report, PLEASE CLICK HERE.

September 12, 2018

With fewer than five weeks to go to the opening of the 2018 CIBJO Congress in Bogotá, Colombia, on October 15, 2018, the fifth of the CIBJO commissions’ Special Reports has been released. Prepared by the CIBJO Ethics Commission, headed by Tiffany C. Stevens, the report focuses exclusively on the newly revised Guides for the Jewelry, Precious Metals, and Pewter Industries, released in July by the U.S. Federal Trade Commission. The report is co-authored by Ms. Stevens and Sara E. Yood.

Addressing comments that had been heard in the jewellery industry that the FTC Guides seem to disregard harmonisation efforts made by the international trade, Ms. Stevens and Ms. Yood note that the primary focus of the American agency is somewhat different. “The FTC tries to harmonise its guidance with international standards when possible, but it must base its guidance on Section 5 of the FTC Act. In contrast, many international standards are developed through industry consensus-building processes that are based not on Section 5’s standards for preventing deception and unfairness, but rather other considerations, such as facilitating trade and promoting international cooperation,” they write.

“The FTC does not especially seek to harmonise global trade standards, but instead envisions its purpose as consumer protection in the United States,” they continue. “Be that as it may, the FTC Guides definitely have a global impact, hence the decision to focus upon them in this year’s Ethics Commission Special Report.”

The other primary international standards of importance to the jewellery and gemstone sectors are those issued by ISO and the various CIBJO Blue Books. An in-depth  discussion of these concepts and their potential for impact across the global market will be had at the 2018 CIBJO Congress in Bogotá, Colombia.

To download a full copy of the CIBJO Ethics Commission’s special report, PLEASE CLICK HERE.

September 5, 2018

With fewer than six weeks to go to the opening of the 2018 CIBJO Congress in Bogotá, Colombia, on October 15, 2018, the fourth of the CIBJO commissions’ Special Reports has been released. Prepared by the CIBJO Coloured Stone Commission, headed by Charles Abouchar, the report looks at efforts being taken to promote responsible practices in the sector, while taking into consideration the very different conditions that exist in the coloured gemstone industry.

“More than 80 percent of rough coloured gemstones that come into the pipeline is produced by tens of thousands of artisanal miners, at a great many small-scale mine sites around the world,” wrote Mr. Abouchar. “But it is not only the logistical difficulties that make the coloured gemstone sector such a tough nut to crack. The potential of an overly cumbersome responsible sourcing system having unintended consequences is also a critical factor. Policies that could economically disadvantage artisanal or small-scale miners, by restricting their ability to be fully involved in the  business, could place at risk literally millions of ordinary people whose lives and communities are currently supported by gemstone mining.”

In the special report, Mr. Abouchar also outlines a project underway to produce an abridged version of the Coloured Stone Blue Book, which will be easier for retailers and their staff to understand and use. This is in recognition of the fact that, with the growing range and sophistication of gemstone treatments and artificial products, the Blue Book has become increasingly detailed, technical and difficult for the layperson to navigate.

Mr. Abouchar also reports on an initiative taken jointly with CIBJO’s Gemmological Commission to encourage gemmological laboratories to separate scientific results and professional opinions on their reports. “We hope that once gemmological laboratories accept this practice, consumers will better understand that parts of a report reflect the opinion of the issuing laboratory, and that such opinions may differ from one laboratory to another,” he notes.

To download a full copy of the CIBJO Coloured Stone Commission’s Special Report, PLEASE CLICK HERE.