SEPTEMBER 26, 2017

The CIBJO European Jewellery Guild, a new body of leading associations from across the continent, has been formally established within the World Jewellery Confederation to advocate for the common interests of European based participants in the jewellery and gemstone industries, and to represent them in contacts with officials, departments and agencies of the European Commission, European Parliament and European Council.

The new body was created and held its inaugural meeting on September 23 at the VICENZAORO jewellery show in Vicenza, Italy. Among the organizations represented were Union Française de la Bijouterie, Joaillerie, Orfèvrerie de Pierres & des Perles (UFBJOPP), from France; the Antwerp World Diamond Centre (AWDC) and ARS NOBILIS, from Belgium; Confidustria and Assogemme, of Italy; BV Schmuck & Uhren and Fachvereinigung Edelmetalle, fom Germany; as well the safety and standards organisation UL. UBOS from Switzerland and the National Association of Jewellers from the United Kingdom were represented by proxy. The meeting was chaired by CIBJO President Gaetano Cavalieri.

At the proposal of the Dr. Cavalieri, the meeting officially approved the establishment of the CIBJO European Jewellery Guild, with the organisations represented at the meeting in Vicenza recognized as its founding members. All other associations and organisations operating in Europe that are already members of CIBJO’s will automatically become members of the new body.

The participants also unanimously approved Dr.  Cavalieri’s nominations of CIBJO European Jewellery Guild office holders. The president of the new body is Bernadette Pinet-Couq, Executive President of UFBJOPP, who to date has also served as chair of the European Jewellery Federation, which is a body uniting jewellery associations from France, Belgium, Italy and Portugal. The nominations of four vice presidents were approved, including Dr. Stefano De Pascale, Director of Confidustria; Michael Bloch, Vice Charmain of ARS NOBILIS; Guido Grohmann, Managing Director of BV Schmuck & Uhren; and Charles Chaussepied, a UFBJOPP board member and former chairman of the Responsible Jewellery Council.

Ms. Bernadette Pinet-Couq outlined the challenges facing the body. They include the lack of balance in tariffs between Europe and its primary jewellery trading partners, harmonizing the often widely divergent thresholds for cash payments between different countries within Europe, the establishment of a compulsory “Made in Europe” seal for jewellery produced in Europe, and addressing issues related to the introduction of recently passed conflict minerals legislation by the European Parliament.

“This is an important milestone for the European jewellery sector, and we are proud to have been able to play a role in facilitating the CIBJO European Jewellery Guild’s creation,” said Dr. Cavalieri. “It is clear that we have a significantly greater chance of addressing our position in Europe if we are united, speaking with a one clear voice. This is most definitely the case when interacting with the various branches of government in the European Union, not only in addressing the challenges that face us, but also in projecting our position as ethical business leaders, and as a major resource of prestige and export revenue.”

SEPTEMBER 20, 2017

With fewer than seven weeks to go to the opening of the 2017 CIBJO Congress in Bangkok, Thailand, on November 5, 2017, the third of the CIBJO commissions’ Special Reports has been released. Prepared by Udi Sheintal, President of the organisation’s Diamond Commission, the report focuses on the terminology used both within the industry and in the consumer markets to differentiate between diamonds sourced naturally and those which are synthetic.

“Without proper analysis, diamonds formed in nature and synthetic diamonds created by man are difficult to distinguish from one another, and consequently the way they each are referred to – or named – is so important. That they are different products there is no argument. But how do we make certain that the consuming public understands this to be the case?” Mr. Sheintal asks at the opening of the report.

In terms of acceptable terminology in the trade, the situation is clear, the report emphasises. Both CIBJO’s Blue Book and the International Standards Organisation’s ISO 18232 rule state categorically that, if the word “diamond” is used without any modifying adjective, it can only be a natural stone. Synthetic diamonds have to be described using one of a number of acceptable modifiers, such as “synthetic,” “laboratory-created” or “laboratory-grown.” Any wilful deviation from these rules by a company selling synthetic diamonds is considered deliberately deceptive behaviour.

But, asks Mr. Sheintal, is the reluctance to use the word “natural” when communicating within the trade correct when it comes to the consumer market? “The diamond industry needs to take ownership of the adjective “natural,” and associate it with other modifiers like ‘real,’ ‘genuine,’ ‘rare’ and ‘unique,’” he writes. “It should be one of our biggest selling tools. But at the same time, we should not budge one centimetre in our opposition to any product that is wholly or partially artificial being referred to as ‘a diamond.’”

To download a full copy of the CIBJO Diamond Commission’s special report, PLEASE CLICK HERE.   

SEPTEMBER 18, 2017

A blue-ribbon panel of experts will be brought together in Vicenza on September 24, to present to the jewellery industry the likely impact of recently approved Regulation (EU) 2017/821, which will regulate minerals from conflict areas into the European Union, and to discuss strategies that companies can employ to comply with its provisions. The seminar is being organised by the Italian Exhibition Group and CIBJO, the World Jewellery Confederation, and will take place on the second day of the September VICENZAORO jewellery trade fair at Fiera di Vicenza.

The new EU regulations will impose due diligence obligations upon companies importing gold, tin, tantalum or tungsten from conflict-affected and high-risk areas. It becomes the third major regulatory framework impacting the jewellery industry, joining the Kimberley Process, which focuses on the rough diamond trade, and the Section 1508 of the United States’ Dodd Frank Act, which also regulates the gold and 3Ts.

Entitled, “The impact on jewellery industry of new EU conflict minerals legislation and strategies for dealing with its requirements,” the seminar will take place 10:30 AM to 1:00 PM, in Hall 8.0 – Conference Room – Sala 8.0.6, of Fiera di Vicenza. It will be conducted in English and a simultaneous translation will be available in Italian.

The moderator of the seminar is Philip Olden, a consultant to Signet Jewelers and the former Managing Director of the World Gold Council.

Panel members include:

• Marten Westrup, Coordinator Energy and Raw Materials at the European Commission, DG Trade.
• Hannah Koep-Andrieu, Policy Adviser—Extractives, in the Responsible Business Conduct division at the Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD).
• France Capon, Secretary General of the European Precious Metals Federation (EPMF).
• Andrew Bone, CEO of the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC).
• Sakhila Mirza, Executive Board Director and General Counsel of the London Bullion Market Association (LBMA).
• Stephane Fischler, Chairman of the World Diamond Council (WDC).
• Francesca Angeloni, Business Development Manager Europe Jewellery and Watch Industry in the Consumer & Retail Services division of UL.
• Fabiana Di Lorenzo, Due Diligence Manager at Levin Sources, which formerly was known as Estelle Levin Limited.

The seminar is the latest in a series of educational events organized by CIBJO and the Italian Exhibition Group, which is part of their joint programme, endorsed by the United Nations Economic and Social Council (ECOSOC), to support Corporate Social Responsibility and sustainability in the jewellery sector.

SEPTEMBER 13, 2017

With fewer than eight weeks to go to the opening of the 2017 CIBJO Congress in Bangkok, Thailand, on November 5, 2017, the second of the CIBJO commissions’ Special Reports has been released. Prepared by CIBJO President Gaetano Cavalieri and Karina Ratzlaff, Vice President of the organisation’s Precious Metals Commission, the report focuses on the background and global impact of new legislation passed in the European Union, which is designed to eliminate the import of gold, tin, tantalum and tungsten that has been used to finance conflict.

The EU measures become the second major conflict minerals regulatory regime impacting the international precious metals sector, joining Section 1508 of the United States’ Dodd Frank Act, which also regulates gold and the 3Ts. But the European legislators took a different approach from Dodd Frank, in part to try and avoid the unintended consequences that resulted from the 2010 American law, which included what has been estimated to be up to 2 million artisanal miners in Africa’s Great Lakes region losing their sources of income.

According to the new law, European importer of gold above a certain threshold will need to apply due diligence steps that must be consistent with the OECD Guidance or another diligence scheme approved by the European Commission. “The new EU regulations are indicative of the increasing prominence of the OECD Due Diligence Guidance for Responsible Supply Chains of Minerals from Conflict-Affected and High-Risk Areas, which rapidly becoming is becoming the standard bearer for multiple industries,” the Special Report’s authors wrote.

On September 24, CIBJO will present in Vicenza, together with the Italian Exhibition Group (IEG), a high-level seminar for the European and international jewellery trade, which will look at the new legislation and its impact, and presenting strategies for companies incorporate the new regulations in their businesses. Moderating the seminar is Philip Olden, a conflict minerals consultant to Signet Jewelers and the former managing director of the World Gold Council. He will head a blue-ribbon panel of experts representing the European Community, the OECD, precious metals and gemstone associations, leading standards organisations, auditors and responsible sourcing consultants.

To download a full copy of the CIBJO Precious Metals Commission’s special report, PLEASE CLICK HERE.

The 2017 CIBJO Congress will take place in Bangkok, Thailand, November 5-7, with pre-congress meetings on November 2 and 3, and the World Ruby Forum taking place on November 4.

 Hosting the CIBJO Congress 2017 are the Department of International Trade Promotion (DITP) and the Gem and Jewellery Institute of Thailand (GIT), both of which fall under the jurisdiction of the Thai Ministry of Commerce.

 The official venue and hotel of the CIBJO Congress 2017 is the Shangri-La Bangkok.    

More information is available and registration possible on the dedicated CIBJO Congress website at: http://www.cibjo.org/congress2017/.   

SEPTEMBER 6, 2017

With fewer than nine weeks to go to the opening of the 2017 CIBJO Congress in Bangkok, Thailand, on November 5, 2017, the first of the CIBJO commissions’ Special Reports has been released. Prepared by the CIBJO Marketing & Education Commission, headed by Jonathan Kendall, the report focuses on human resource management in the jewellery business, and more specifically discusses recruitment and the methods necessary to maintain and fortify a winning team of employees.

“The honest truth is we don’t spend enough time on our greatest asset, our people,” writes Mr. Kendall. “But it is almost certainly where we should be expending a major portion of our attention. Good decisions will spell success, but bad decisions about people can have far-reaching and negative consequences.”

At the 2017 CIBJO Congress in Bangkok, the Marketing & Education Commission will be releasing a guide, authored by Mr. Kendall, called People, Our Greatest Asset. Providing valuable HR management information, as well as set of tools, forms and templates, the publication answers a number of questions that any jewellery and gemstone business has to ask itself on a regular basis, such as what creates motivated and contributing employees, how do reward and recognition programmes raise employee motivation, and how can you retain top quality staff?

Following the launch of “People, Our Greatest Asset” guide at the CIBJO Congress, it will be made available for general downloading via the CIBJO website.

To download a full copy of the CIBJO Market & Education Commission’s special report, PLEASE CLICK HERE.

The 2017 CIBJO Congress will take place in Bangkok, Thailand, November 5-7, with pre-congress meetings on November 2 and 3, and the World Ruby Forum taking place on November 4.

 Hosting the CIBJO Congress 2017 are the Department of International Trade Promotion (DITP) and the Gem and Jewellery Institute of Thailand (GIT), both of which fall under the jurisdiction of the Thai Ministry of Commerce.

 The official venue and hotel of the CIBJO Congress 2017 is the Shangri-La Bangkok.    

More information is available and registration possible on the dedicated CIBJO Congress website at: http://www.cibjo.org/congress2017/.   

SEPTEMBER 5, 2017

With support growing for an international system that will monitor the responsible sourcing of coloured gemstones, CIBJO President Gaetano Cavalieri has discussed possible alternatives that also will meet the requirements of smaller-scale miners. He did so during a visit to Colombia, in talks with representatives of the country’s government and industry.

Dr. Cavalieri was visiting Colombia at the invitation of Jorge Martín, President of Expojoyas Colombia, the organizer of the country’s leading jewellery and gemstone trade fair, and the Chamber of Commerce of Bogotá

“What was apparent both from the thoughts expressed by officials from the Ministry of Mines and Energy of Colombia, as well as representatives of the local mining, coloured gemstones and jewellery trades, there is a readiness to consider a structured system that will help monitor the chain of supply, on condition that it does not compromise the basic interests of individuals and communities that are dependent on the revenues and jobs provided by small-scale mining,” Dr. Cavalieri said.

“The task of developing a viable international system that can monitor the coloured gemstone industry, where upwards of 80 percent of rough output is produced by small-scale and artisanal miners, will be made considerably easier if we can do so with the cooperation of government, community and business leaders in the producing countries,” Dr. Cavalieri continued. “After visiting Colombia, I am more convinced than ever that this is possible, but it will require maintaining a spirit of goodwill. Attempts to push through solutions without consulting the people on the ground, who ultimately will be those most affected, almost certainly will be counterproductive.”

During his four-day visit to Colombia, Dr. Cavalieri visited the Porvenir emerald mine, near the town of Chivor, which is 160 kilometres from Bogotá in the State of Boyaca. There he met with the small-scale mine’s owner, the mayor of Chivor and local business leaders, who stressed the importance of the gemstone mining sector to the life and wellbeing of local inhabitants.“It was an enlightening experience,” Dr. Cavalieri said. “These are people who have a vested interest in the integrity of their business and also in continuing economic opportunities in their community. Increasingly they realize that the two are interlinked.”

During his discussions in Colombia, Dr. Cavalieri stressed CIBJO’s support towards attaining a viable and sustainable system for monitoring responsible sourcing in the coloured gemstone sector. He said that possible solutions will be discussed at the 2017 CIBJO Congress, which is scheduled to take place in Bangkok, Thailand, from November 5 though November 7, 2017.

CIBJO President Gaetano Cavalieri (centre), during a panel discussion with jewellery industry and business leaders in Bogotá. He is flanked (from left) by Patricia de Brugger; Jorge Martín, President of Expojoyas Colombia; Camilo Lievano, Business Director of the Chamber of Commerce of Bogotá; and Mario Fontalvo, Director of the Jewelry Cluster of the Chamber of Commerce of Bogotá.